Madras fabric hails from the Southern Indian city of Chennai, formerly Madras, and is perhaps the most instantly recognisable cloth in the Ivy League pantheon. A quick flick through some of the noteworthy literature and publications dedicated to the classic style from the last few years, such as Reel Art Press’ Hollywood and The Ivy Look, Jazz Festival, or Graham Marsh and JP Gaul’s excellent The Ivy Look handbook, will reveal the prevalence of madras fabric in all manner of garments throughout the 1960s. Madras could be seen in soft-shouldered Ivy jackets and trousers, narrow square-end ties, shorts, and of course its most iconic iteration: the Madras button-down shirt.

But what exactly is Indian Madras, and what does it look like? Typically, Madras fabric is woven on narrow looms, utilising several different yarns to produce plaid fabrics with varied shades and hues. As a result of this process, authentic Madras features a soft texture, with minute flecks and subtle irregularities that add depth and character. Over time, and after repeated washing, true Madras softens considerably, becoming lighter, more comfortable, and unmistakably personal to the wearer, much in the same way as a pair of raw selvedge denim jeans.

At John Simons, ever the stalwarts of classic menswear with an eye firmly on the future, we continue to celebrate this heritage with a range of authentically produced Indian Madras garments, all made in India. Alongside our long-established button-down styles, this Spring/Summer sees the introduction of a new range of Madras shirts inspired by five jazz greats. The influence is subtle rather than literal, reflecting the ease, proportion and confidence of mid-century jazz style.

Our most iconic Madras garments remain our button-down shirts, available in a variety of patterns and in both long sleeved full-placket and popover iterations. They feature classic Ivy League details throughout: a three-button collar with generous roll, flap pocket, locker loop, box pleat and a traditional, easy fit, all hallmarks of a shirt designed to be lived in rather than preserved.

How to wear Madras? Owing to its lightweight handle and vibrant colours, Madras is most commonly associated with Spring and Summer, and rightly so. John himself notes that when Madras button-downs are “teamed up with your favourite pair of jeans and a pair of well-worn sneakers, they really hit the spot.”